In mid-September 2010, we took off for nine days to visit Tibet.  Our trip started with an early morning flight to Bangkok where we transferred to another TG (Thai International) flight to Chengdu, China. Chengdu is the gateway of our travel to Tibet. While in Chengdu we got to visit some interesting places: the Jinli Ancient Street, Giant Panda Breeding Research Centre and Qing Yang Gong Daoist Temple. One evening was spent at the Sichuan Opera House. 

From Chengdu we flew to Xining. We had an overnight stay in Xining where we had the opportunity to visit the Ta’er Temple, travelled across the Riyue (or Sun and Moon Mountain) to visit the Qinghai Lake. 

The next day, at about 4 p.m. we started our 1,972 kilometre journey to Lhasa. The journey took 25hours.  This 15-coache-Xining-Lhasa train ride was one of the highlights of our travel. No one should ever miss this part of the journey.  The Chinese refers to this railway as the Sky Train or Rocket to the Rooftop of the Word. Truly this is an engineering wonder. The train climbs over the Tanggula pass at 5,072 metres (16,737 feet) above sea level, making it the highest railway in the world. The 1,338 m Fenghuoshan tunnel is at 4,905 metres. The 3,345-meter Yangbajing tunnel is the longest tunnel of the line. It is 4,264 m above sea level.  Over 80% of the journey is at altitudes above 13,000 feet (3962 m). It is said that the Qinghai-Tibet railway transported 1.5 million passengers in its first year of operation. 

Lhasa (sometimes spelt as Lasa) is the administrative capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. It was once the place where the God-king, Dalai Lama lived and ruled his kingdom. Lhasa is one of the highest cities in the world. It is 3,490 metres (11.450 feet) above sea level. 

Being the birthplace of Tibetan Buddhism, Lhasa showcases two important landmarks: the Potala Palace and the Jokhang or the Dazhao Temple. In addition, in Lhasa, we had the opportunity to visit the Tibet Museum, Temple of Thousand Images of Buddha and the breeding farm of the Tibet shepherd dog, mastiff. One evening we enjoyed a Tibetan cultural show. 

From Lhasa we drove to Shigatse (also spelt as Xigaze), the second largest city in Tibet. It is about 250 km from Lhasa and the bus ride took about 5 hours. It took us through the beautiful mountain and valley road. We saw the Yamdrok Lake and the Kanuola Glacier. On the way, we stopped at one serene monastery – the Baiju Temple. 

Shigatse is located slightly higher than Lhasa, at 3,840 metres (12,600 feet) above sea level.  Here flows the Yarlung Zangbo – known to many as the Brahmaputra River that goes all the way to India.  The main attraction of Shigatse is the Tash Lhunpo – one of the four “Yellow Sect” monasteries in Tibet. This is also where Panchen Lama (second highest ranking lama) once lived and ruled his kingdom. 

1.  My initial impression is that Tibetans are gentle and friendly people. This assumption stems from the fact that they are Buddhists. Unfortunately, it may not be true at all. Tibet was “liberated” by China in 1951 – barely 60 years ago. In Eyewitnesses to 100 Years of Tibet, Tibetologist Li Youyi wrote: “Before liberation, Tibet followed a system of strict feudal serfdom … similar to the situation that prevailed in Europe in the middle ages. Tibetan monks and lay rulers (nobles and the elite class) enjoyed a high position and lived in comfort and ease … Exploited by the feudal rules, serfs lived a far worse life than the beasts of burden. … the nobles and tax collectors shouting at and whipping serfs … and what I could only hear was the weeping and sighing of the latter.” Li Youyi wrote further: “The serfs were never able to pay off their debts that were passed on as a burden from one generation to the next … the Tibetan serfs were suffering such brutal exploitation and oppression, they did not rise up against oppression …(They were taught that) “this is fate. They believed that the misery they suffered in this life was because of sins they had commiteed in their incarnations: only suffering misery in this life could they wash away the sin and could then transmigrate to a better state.” 

In Tibetan Stories, Zhang Xioming quoted Alexand Nell, a French Tibetologist who wrote: “Poverty stricken serfs and slaves turned to usury. The debt mounted year by year, so that none could escape. When they died, their children took over the debt. They were paid nothing to work for the old Tibetan government … they were not allowed to leave their hometown. Those who fled home would be returned to be beaten and forced to pay heavy fines; their relatives would also be beaten.” 

It was described in the Biography of the 13th Dalai Lama that whipping was common occurrence. The accused would be whipped and those who accused the offenders and even the eyewitnesses would be whipped too … Some had their noses, fingers cut off, while some others had their eyes gouged out.” 

“Under the feudal serfdom, serfs and slaves made up 95 percent of the Tibetan population, but owned nothing.  Serf owners who made up only less than 5 percent of the population, however, owned 95-odd percent of the population.” 

Intensive Reading for Tibetology Students provides a glimpse of the daily routine of the ordinary Tibetans. “ … they chant prayers to themselves while seated cross-legged on the ground … Charms and amulets not only signify a person’s respect for the spirit world, but are also considered to have specific magical powers to ward off diseases, accidents and misfortunes, bullets, dog-bites, attacks by eagles and so forth. The rosaries are supposed to contain 108 beads of uniform size and are held in the right hand when they are being counted. Aromatic shrubs – usually juniper – are burned in public places, as much for their value as offerings as their spiritual significance, for the smoke from their fires is believed to carry prayers and be a defense against evil spirits. Tibetans Buddhists cling to the idea of the efficacy of prayer – the more the better. The prayer wheel … is seen everywhere. Women walk down the street twirling a small prayer wheel, confident that with every turn they accumulate merits in this life and will obtain a better reincarnation in the next.” 

Bishop K.H. Ting (http://www.amitynewsservice.org/page.php?page=1486) wrote, “In China, the feudal code of ethics and the patriarchal clan system have held the place taken by religion in Europe.” Mao     Tse-tung once said that religion is the “opium of the people. The exploiting classes needed to use religion as their primary spiritual means to anesthetize and control the masses.” 

Our tour guide spoke briefly about how the slaves were tortured by their masters. I was shocked that this could happen in a country ruled by Reverend Buddhist monks. For your information, the dictionary definition of serf is:  “a slave, or a person in a condition of servitude, required to render services to a lord, commonly attached to the lord and can be transferred from one owner to another.”  In short, Tibet was once a Kingdom of Slaves ruled by God-kings. This made me to wonder, is God so cruel, nasty and demanding? What has happened to the compassion and reverence for life that are passionately taught by the religion? I was just a sad to see how Tibetans were taught to pray (see videos – Thousand Images of Buddha;  How They Pray). 

The word of Albert Einstein comes to mind: “The world is a dangerous place not because of those who do evil, but because of those (good people) who look on and do nothing.” How true it is. 

2.  At high altitude, the oxygen level is low and many of us who are not used to living in such an environment may invariable fall sick or suffer from Acute Mountain Sickness, characterized as headache, palpitation, shortness of breath, lightheadedness, weakness, trouble sleeping and an upset stomach. More severe symptoms include difficulty breathing even while you’re resting, coughing, confusion and the inability to walk in a straight line. However, we can get “acclimatized” to it –  the body get  “adjusted” to the low oxygen level. This takes several days. 

Im suffered from this Acute Mountain Sickness and needed medical help twice. There is no need to worry. In the hotel, there is a doctor who is always available.  Within two hours after medication, the headache and other symptoms were gone. Each treatment cost approximately Renminbi 500 (Chinese Yuan). 

3.  Sixty years after “liberation”, the Tibet what we see today is booming. Our trip to Tibet is a wonderful, once-in-a-life-time experience. There is no doubt that in the years to come, Tibet would be a great, “must-see” place for tourists worldwide.  As of now, the basic infrastructures for tourism are in place. The hotels are excellent. The tourist guide speaks good English – better than most of their counterparts elsewhere in China. What is left to be sorted out is the stinking, filthy public toilet along the way. This is understandable – human behavior and attitude take time to change. 

Thanks Kim for your lovely photos!

(Continue: Videos and Pictures of Tibet - following post)

Click here to see slide show of Potala Palace